Saturday 14 December 2013

EVERY GHOST TOWN HAS A LIFE


(Or I Love My Stupid City, and I Never Even Knew)

Maribor, Slovenia.



It doesn’t seem like anything special. Truth to be told, it probably isn’t, just a town with its history and its present, with its strengths and weaknesses, bad roads, and so many cobblestones, and narrow allies that smell like piss.
The thing is...
Yes, I noticed the piss. I noticed the crumbling buildings, the holes in the roads, the emptiness of the city in the night hours. I noticed how there isn’t always something going on, how people don’t simply hang out in the streets, and how you’ll probably get another child before you’ll find a parking spot in the centre, doesn’t matter if you’re paying for it or not. How nobody famous ever comes here because we’re simply too small, how there is no way you’ll find unconventional things, how the idea of second-hand shops is just starting to oh-so-slowly take root in the consciousness of the city.
What I didn’t notice—I love the city. I love the darkness where a street lamp has died, I love the light one can see enveloping the main square in the evening when the sun is setting, I even love the stupid holes in the pavement because I know they’re there, and they feel like home.
I know the streets, the narrow allies that lead who knows where and no foreigner will ever step into, but I know I can go there and won’t get lost.
I know exactly which shop to go to if I need this and that, which bakeries stay open late in the evening, and I know the paths to walk.
I’ve never read any tourist-oriented literature about Maribor, so I have no clue what it says, but I might as well write a couple of lines in case anyone ever gets lost and wanders out Austria…
·         There’s exactly one very good tea shop, and that’s Čajek. Don’t bother searching for any other ones; you won’t find them. Not if you want real tea, a cosy atmosphere, and delicious cake. Chairs with bad backrests come for free (but I’m sure if you try out enough of them, you’ll find one that’s good. Yes, almost every chair is different).



·         Behind the dull, grey exterior of old city houses, there are beautiful atriums no one else but the building’s residents can see. Why am I telling you this if you won’t get to see them? Well, now you want to, don’t you?
·         The best Chinese restaurant? That could be argued about. But I get the right to decide because it's my blog, right? Right. 
·         There are two really good ice cream places, or so people say. I suppose their customers are sort of, kind of, maybe, at war, except not really. But no one will ever, and by that I mean ever, convince me Ilich is better than Lastovka. No one. (So don’t let them fool you, either.) 



·         We have a forest in our city. An actual forest, not a park. Well, we have a park too, but you get the point. Although… there might be more people inside in than the trees. But it’s definitely a forest.






No comments:

Post a Comment